Come to the End-of-Summer Celebration at Norway Gardens
August 28-29-30
Read about special attractions on Sat., August 29.


During our End-of-Summer Celebration on Aug. 28-30, get this
snail lawn ornament, $34.99 value, FREE with a $100 or more
purchase.

Mark your calendar for these upcoming events!

Fall Wreath Workshop -- Aug. 29, 11:15 a.m.
Proven Winner Shrub Seminar -- Aug. 29, 10 a.m.
End-of-Summer Celebration at Norway Gardens -- Aug. 28-29-30

 

Current Hours: Mon. through Sat., 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m
        Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.


 

Free Gift Wrapping At Norway Gardens!

Visit Norway Gardens whenever you need a gift for someone special. Did you know you can purchase gifts there and have them gift-wrapped for you FREE? Simply ask to have your purchases wrapped & it will be done for you while you wait.

Wreath Workshop Fun



Wreath-Making Workshop during End of Summer Celebration

On Sat., August 29, 2015, we will have a Fall Wreath-Making Workshop as part of our End of Summer Celebrations. Here are pictures of past workshop. Participants really enjoy this event!


View the embedded image gallery online at:
http://www.norwaygardens.com/#sigProGalleriade1642bb5b


Be sure to register for our upcoming workshop. You may choose from two different wreath bases and select the flowers you wish to use. Cost of this Make-It Take-It is $35, which covers all the supplies you will need. We will have a workshop at 11:15 a.m. and again (if needed) an afternoon workshop at 1 p.m.





Here are samples of wreaths you may choose to make:

   

End Of Summer

End of Summer Celebration at Norway Gardens!
Saturday, August 29, 2015


The End of Summer Celebration is coming soon to Norway Gardens. We will have special prices on lots of merchandise, a wreath-making class, a seminar on Proven Winner Shrubs, and a WOW Weekend Special.
 
Fall Wreath-making Workshop n--
Saturday, August 29, 11 a.m. and again at 1 p.m. (if needed.

  We will limit each session to 9 participants, giving plenty of room to work and adequate instruction. Registration for this workshop is necessary if you wish to insure a spot at either session.

Seminar on Proven Winner Shrubs -- 10 a.m. on Sat., August 29, 2015




 

Success with Hydrangeas

There are several basic categories of hydrangeas. It is important to know how these differ. Some bloom on new wood and some on old wood. Knowing this helps you determine when and if you should prune your hydrangeas. Each type of hydrangea performs in its own special way. In order to choose the hydrangea you prefer, you need to know how each basic type differs.
  • Hydrangea arborescens or Smooth Hydrangea. This category includes Annabelle, Invincibelle Spirit, and Incrediball. These all bloom on new wood. This is important to know because you can trim these in early spring and they will still bloom. Also, if the branches from last year are winter killed, it doesn't matter since blooms do not recur on these old branches. Annabelle and Incrediball have white blooms while Invincibelle Spirit has pink blooms. Blooms from hydrangea arborescens do not change color according to pH of soil. They are what they are! Annabelle blooms get huge, sometimes to the point that they flop to the ground. Avoid this by not trimming your Annabelle back too far, thus giving more branch to hold the heavy blooms.



  • Hydrangea paniculata or Panicle Hydrangeas -- These hydrangeas have cone-shaped blooms. They are usually white but often fade to lovely pinks, mauves, and reds. These are the most sun-tolerant of all the hydrangeas. Varieties of Hydrangea paniculata that we have at Norway Gardens include Limelight, Quickfire, Pinky Winky, Little Lime, and the new Vanilla Strawberry. Quickfire is the earliest to bloom, two weeks before the others, which bloom in late July and August.



  • Hydrangea quercifolia or Oakleaf Hydrangea -- These hydrangeas have a distinctive leaf with a shape similar to an oak leaf. They tolerate shade best of all the hydrangeas and have white blooms, the color of which cannot be altered. They have four seasons of interest with vivid burgundy leaves in fall and cinnamon-colored exfoliating bark in the winter. Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood so trim them only when you have to and only before August, cutting off flowers only if you want it to bloom next year.




  • Hydrangea macrophylla or Bigleaf Hydrangea. This group includes the wonderful series 'Forever and Ever,' and the very popular 'Endless Summer' hydrangeas in addition to a new Cityline Series of Hydrangea by Proven Winner. These are the hydrangeas that will produce blue or pink blooms according to the pH of the soil. For blue blooms you need an acid soil 5.2 to 5.5 pH. The best way to acidify your soil is with aluminum sulfate. Add lime to your soil to make it more basic, thus producing pink blooms on these hydrangeas. It is easier, however, to change pink hydrangeas to blue than vice versa. Endless Summer and the Forever & Ever hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood.



  • Hydrangea anomala subsp. Periolaris or Climbing Hydrangeas -- These vine-type hydrangeas have white lace-cap blooms. They are gorgeous but take three or more years to get established enough that they will begin blooming. 

In caring for hydrangeas remember the slogan "Full is Bad." Full sun will cause hydrangeas to wilt and too much shade will make them spindly. Too much moisture will cause them to rot and too much drought will kill them. Hydrangeas love morning sun and afternoon shade. They love moisture in well-drained soil. Don't plant hydrangeas under trees. This gives them too much competition for available moisture. Keep them well mulched.

Aphids and spider mites can be a problem with hydrangeas as can some diseases, such as leaf spot and powdery mildew. Triple Action and Kill-A-Bug 2 are great for insect and mite control while a systemic fungicide will take care of diseases. Fertilize your hydrangeas with a high nitrogen and low phosphorus fertilizer. Fertilome Tree and Shrub Food is an excellent choice. The potassium in your fertilizer is important for your blue hydrangeas. Don't prune your hydrangeas any more often than absolutely necessary.

With this knowledge you have all you need to grow spectacular hydrangeas.

 

Guard Against Blight on Tomatoes

Tomato blight can ruin a gardener's dreams of tomatoes! Blight is a fungal disease spread by spores. It is most severe in wet weather. There are three basic kinds of blight on tomatoes, Septoria Leaf Spot, early blight caused by the fungus Alternaria solani, and late blight from the fungal-type organism known as Phytophthora infestans .

Septoria leaf spot appears on the lower leaves of the plant after tomatoes begin setting on the plant. This fungus rarely affects the fruits of the plant but it reduces yield and quality. As leaves thin out from this fungus, the exposed tomatoes no longer have leaf protection from the sun and often are damaged by sunscald. This fungus spreads from plant to plant by splashing water.

Early blight affects lower leafs first too. It is first seen as dark brown to black spots on the leaves. Later the leaves turn yellow and drop. Even the stems of the tomato can be affected by early blight. Sometimes black spots appear on the tomatoes as well and often the tomatoes fall off the plant before they have a chance to ripen. This fungus overwinters on old tomato vines as well as on certain weeds.

Late blight most often appears in moist weather when nights are cool and days are quite warm. This fungus shows itself with dark green to nearly black wet-looking spots that begin spreading from the edges of the tomato leaves. Often a downy white growth appears on the lower leaf surface close to the outer part of the spots. This fungus is a rapid spreader!

What can be done about tomato blight? First, don't plant tomatoes in the same spot each year. Rotate them so you plant them in the same spot every three to four years. Next, if you have had a problem with blight before, plan to use a good veggie-safe fungicide such as Fertilome Broad Spectrum Landscape & Garden Fungicide or Bonide Fung-onil. These fungicides need to be applied every week or two beginning before any fungus appears. Once you see it, you may be too late in your efforts to destroy it.

With proper planning and care, you can avoid tomato blight and have a great harvest of tomatoes.

Contact Us

Norway Gardens
308 West Walleston Ave. (Map)
Monticello, Indiana

Phone: (574) 583-3811
Fax: (574) 583-3167

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